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Vitamin C comes in many forms each of which has a different use and place in skincare products. As natural skincare formulators we need to understand our options to ensure we use the correct form to provide the maximum benefits in our end products.

As we all know, we can’t be chopping up vitamin C-rich fruit and vegetables like Brussels sprouts, kiwis and cherries, or squeezing orange juice for use in our formulations. First, a little bit of vitamin C chemistry, L-ascorbic acid (LAA) is the chemically and synthetically active form of vitamin C. In nature, vitamin C is found in equal parts as LAA and D-ascorbic acid.

Common forms of vitamin C used in skincare are Ascorbic Acid (water soluble), and Vitamin C derivatives: its esterified forms. Ascorbic Acid’s main use in skincare is for de-pigmentation. There are disadvantage of Ascorbic Acid and vitamin C derivatives. Ascorbic acid is Ascorbic acid is very unstable and this aspect is of huge concern and is problematic to us as natural skincare formulators. Vitamin C derivative disadvantage is that they are less effective than ascorbic acid.

Ascorbyl Palmitate is the oil soluble form of Vitamin C also known as Vitamin C Ester, facilitated by bonding with palmitic acid. Because it is oil soluble, and nonacid, it is much more stable than the water soluble form of Vitamin C, L Ascorbic Acid. Features of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate are:

  • Whitening Effect- Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase and Reduction of Melanin
  • Reduces UV-A and UV-B damage which provides UV protection as well as anti-stress
  • Eliminate oxygen free radicals hence giving anti-aging protection
  • Good solubility in common cosmetic oils, which is a unique feature of VCOS
  • Much More stable than Vitamin C
  • Promote Collagen synthesis key property for anti-aging
  • It is effective at a neutral pH, which means that it is non-irritating on the skin.
  • Its visual appearance is that of a whitish powder.
  • It is naturally derived: ECOCERT/COSMOS approved

Recommended Dosage:

  • As product protection antioxidant: 0.1% – 0.2%
  • as skincare active: 0.1% – 1%

Oil-soluble form of vitamin C. Potent antioxidant. Can improve appearance of aged and fragile skin. Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products to correct hyperpigmentation and age spots.

Look Beautiful!

Call for samples today to incorporate allegedly the best and novel ingredient to design a product that will give the most visible benefits. A rare combination of anti ageing and time tested staple of ancient beauty.

Preeti Attrai

Head Personal Care & Home Care

Bansal Trading Company

www.bansaltrading.com

If you have any questions on the scientific content of this blog, please email me at preeti@bansaltrading.com

The views expressed in this blog are not a claim for efficiency of the product and excerpts have been taken from the internet and or blogs of similar nature. The author would like to acknowledge and thank those sources. The author is not the inventor, but a marketer of the ingredient or the product. This blog is not legal advice or a recommendation. This blog is intended to provide only general, non-specific information. This blog is not intended to cover all the issues related to the topic discussed.  You should not rely on this blog in any manner whatsoever and you should not draw any conclusions of any sort from this blog.  The specific facts that apply to your matter may make the outcome different than would be anticipated by you.  This blog is based on Indian laws but the laws of other countries may be different.  You should find your own conclusions after doing proper research and development. The author or the company the blogger works for do not claim, profess or recommend the product and hence shall not be legally responsible for this blog or the use and efficiency of the product, including its side effects

Preeti Attrai

Preeti Attrai

8 Comments

  1. Priya AhujaPriya Ahuja

    Best Solution for Oil based formulation VcOS-Oil Soluble Vitamin C derivative
    Thank you so much for sharing this vital information with us. Desire to know more from you 🙂

    Reply
  2. Jatin AggarwalJatin Aggarwal

    Preeti, Excellent insight into VcOS. Vitamin C has been a time tested and proven ingredient for anti ageing and a brighter complexion, but with limitation of solubility in oil and its long term stability. Ethical and safe cosmetics with genuine verifiable benefits are in vogue now. The blog explains well the reasons why this avant-garde oil soluble ingredient can make a generic, ordinary product transform into a sought after niche. Your detailed review shall answer many FAQs and raise curiosity for more information. Information, that you have not hoarded, but shared. Very informative. Thank You!

    Reply
  3. AvatarRavinder Dhayal

    Thanks for putting such informational blog on Vitamin C and it’s forms. Being a general with no background, it enlightened me about different forms of Vitamin C.
    Just want to know more about “Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate” as in which form of Vitamin C it is and how it is different and beneficial than other forms.

    Thanks in advance
    Ravinder

    Reply
  4. Preeti AttraiPreeti Attrai

    @Ravinder Dhayal “Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate” is oil-soluble, so it penetrate skin faster than any other form of vitamin C. In simple language i can say that your skin has an lipid (oil) protective layer that keeps moisture in and germs out. You know that water and oil don’t mix. That’s why anything water-based needs the helping hand of a good delivery system to penetrate your skin. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is soluble in oil so it easily slips into the skin.

    Reply

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